The Little League World Series for fans: free baseball, beer with dads
SOUTH WILLIAMSPORT, Pa. — At first glance, this seems like just another sleepy American town.
The population hovers around 6,000, and a nearby Wegmans supermarket is arguably one of the more notable attractions. But for two weeks every August, the quaint community transforms into the nexus of the baseball universe as it plays host to the Little League World Series, attracting hundreds of thousands of tourists.
“It’s the center of the baseball world, plain and simple,” said Chris Spallone, a sports fan from New York who has been attending nearly every year since he was a kid in the late ’90s.
I met Spallone in the concessions line last weekend, when I made my first trip to youth baseball’s big event. Like many Americans, I have watched bits and pieces on ESPN every August, intrigued by its unique pomp and circumstance. Once I decided to finally make the trek to South Williamsport, I found Spallone’s enthusiasm was contagious.
“You step inside of these confines and forget about the real world for a little bit,” he told me, as his young son tugged at his shirt, asking if he could get ice cream. “Everyone here is just so darn nice.”
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Making friends with international fans
Founded in 1947, the Little League World Series is an international youth baseball competition for kids 10 to 12.. It was first held across the Susquehanna River in Williamsport. Now its home is an expansive outdoor complex that includes two baseball fields: Howard J. Lamade Stadium, where 10 teams from across the U.S. play games in the American bracket; and Volunteer Stadium, where 10 teams from across the globe compete in the international bracket.
On Saturday, ABC will broadcast the International Championship at 12:30 p.m. Eastern and the U.S. Championship at 3:30 p.m. The winners of those games will meet Sunday at 3 p.m. in the World Series Championship.
Attendance for the tournament is completely free, though claiming a seat is first-come, first-serve. If they fill up, there is ample space to sit on hills and fields overlooking both stadiums.
“Everyone here is just so darn nice.”
— Chris SpalloneAccording to a number of longtime fans, the international flavor of the event has increased in recent years, especially after the tournament expanded to 20 teams last year, including two new international entries.
“Everything is way more vibrant than it used to be,” said Spallone. “Tons of the international teams’ families, friends and even fans make the trip here, which wasn’t always the case when I was a kid. You can chat with them in the stands and learn about their lifestyle.”
Minutes later, I sat down in the bleachers next to Dave Martyn, whose son plays on the Australian team. He estimated around 40 Australians had made the more-than-20-hour journey, and the magnitude of the event blew him away.
“You watch this on TV for so long and think you know what to expect,” he said. “You get here and multiply that by a thousand.”
The in-stadium experience
When I first entered the complex, I was struck by just how big it all seemed. In addition to the packed stands, swarms of people laid out on the rolling hills overlooking the baseball fields. Kids were sliding down steep, muddy inclines. Some were using cardboard boxes, and some were purely body surfing, but all were getting absolutely caked in dirt as their parents shook their heads (or filmed on their phones).
I made a bee line to Volunteer Stadium to catch an international match between Japan and Mexico, eager to check out their respective fan sections. The Mexican contingent, many wearing sombreros, chanted and pounded the bleachers in support of their pitcher. The Japanese fans waved flags and sang unique songs for each batter, reminding me of when I traveled to Japan years ago and observed a few Nippon Professional Baseball games.
I sat next to a man from Saskatchewan, Canada, whose grandson was playing on the Canadian team. He said that he had barely seen his grandson all week — teams stay in private dormitories near the stadium — but he was enjoying the opportunity to chat with other people from around the world. And he especially enjoyed the food.
“You’ve really got to take a tour of the concession stands,” he advised.
Nostalgia-inducing prices were part of the appeal: Hot dogs were $3.50, while brisket BBQ sandwiches, slushies, ice cream cones and hamburgers went for around $6. The most expensive item I found was chicken fried rice at an international stall for $8.50, still affordable compared to the fare at Major League stadiums.
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The unofficial bar of the LLWS
Beer is the one concession item understandably not for sale here. That doesn’t mean there aren’t a few adult beverages in the surrounding neighborhood, though. Just about every adult I spoke with recommended I make my way to the Mountaineer Lounge, the only bar within walking distance of the LLWS complex.
Tucked away on the corner of a residential road, the tavern is decidedly nondescript, with a sign on its side proudly proclaiming: “South Williamsport’s Best Kept Secret.”
As I stepped inside, it certainly didn’t seem like a secret; it was packed with people, many wearing LLWS fan apparel. A group of dads from Ohio asked me to join them at their table.
“We just need a little something to take the edge off,” said Brad Gilmer as he ordered a round of beers. He and his fellow dads were sharing a quick drink before going to watch their sons play an elimination game at Lamade Stadium. They, too, had been advised to check out the Mountaineer.
“This place kind of reminds me of my grandma’s house,” Gilmer added, pointing to the vintage, sporty memorabilia on the walls.
Ron Mueller, one of the other Ohio dads, led a toast at the table.
“We just want to have one or two drinks — within reason,” he said with a laugh. “After all, ESPN has cameras in our faces the entire game!”
A handful of Puerto Rico fans sat in one corner, while a couple of guests wearing Japan gear sat in another. A waitress told me that a group from Curaçao had stopped by earlier and absolutely loved the hamburger soup.
“For us, it’s kind of like working a Friday night every night for two and a half weeks,” said Jessica Clark, one of the bartenders and the daughter-in-law of the owner. “Parents, coaches, umpires, interpreters, the ESPN media — everyone, from all around the world, comes here. I tell myself I’ll learn a new language every year but haven’t quite done that yet.”
The bar, founded in 1952 and operating as the Mountaineer Lounge under its current ownership for 27 years, has cornered the market on Little League libations. In her 17 years working there, Clark has befriended a number of regulars who work the event each year. She also gets to know the coaches, many of whom come late at night for a few drinks to unwind after a long day.
“It’s just a really special time here,” Clark said, “and so neat that this little mom-and-pop, family-owned place becomes an international hub.”
Trading pins and other entertainment
Outside of the Little League games, a variety of family-friendly activities were set up around the complex to keep fans occupied. A “Fun Zone” featured batting cages and other baseball-themed games, and vendors and gift shops sold unique merchandise.
And then there’s the pins — a long-standing tradition at the LLWS. Since the event’s inception, kids, parents, coaches and umpires have all traded pins as icebreakers. And at night, a few of the nearby hotels host pin-trading rooms, where former Little Leaguers proudly display their most elaborate pins and collectibles. At one hotel, I ran into Todd Frazier — former MLB all-star, current ESPN commentator, and 1998 LLWS champion — trading and showing off his own collection.
A number of adults did share with me one complaint about the overall LLWS experience: There are not a ton of typical tourist attractions, such as art museums or landmarks, which could make an extended stay in South Williamsport a bit of a challenge. A weekend trip, though, felt just right. Even for a fan like myself without a rooting interest, the whole trip was charming.
As I made my way out of the complex for the final time on Sunday, I ran into Martyn, the Australian dad. He had just been speaking with a few Americans about his long journey to the United States.
“Everyone here is so friendly — and very curious when they hear my accent,” he said.
In fact, he said he planned to stop by the Mountaineer Lounge later that day in the hopes of making a few more friends from around the world.
“I’m sure I’ll wind up there for a couple of pints,” he laughed.
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